Siberian Huskies For Dummies Page 13

  But here’s the problem with “sit”: It’s not a particularly useful command, unless you plan to do obedience, or for some reason you want the dog to take up less room. Most of the time, a quietly standing dog is just as good as a sitting one. People like to teach “sit” because it’s easy, and they feel they have more control over a sitting dog than they do over a standing one.

  Don’t use “sit” to stop negative behavior, because that’s not teaching a dog to halt the behavior. It’s only reinforcing the “sit” command. Next time, he’ll go right back to jumping up, or charging the door, or whatever, until you tell him to sit again. You can spend the rest of your dog’s life doing that. “Sit” should just mean “sit” (for whatever reason) and not “quit it.” When you want a dog to cease a behavior, teach him to cease that specific behavior. If you want him to stop doing something one time, say, “no.”

  “Stay”

  Some trainers use a separate command for “stay,” and others prefer to use “sit” for both actions. The philosophy behind “stay” is that the dog will anticipate a longer wait period and not be so stressed. The theory behind using one command is that it’s simpler for the dog, and teaches patience. I’ve seen both ideas put successfully into practice. You can also use “stay” with a standing dog. In any case, start small. It’s unreasonable to expect your dog to stay for more than a few seconds at first.

  Begin “stay” training by having your Husky stay in a corner. It reduces the number of major escape routes.

  Gradually, you can increase the stay time. If he starts to get up, say “stay!” and shake the lead. Then put him back in position. Praise him as he responds correctly.

  “Down”

  Begin with the dog in a sit position. Say “down,” and press against your Husky’s withers. Or you can lure him down with a biscuit. If he tries to get up, lean against his shoulder until he resumes the down. Teaching “down” is a little easier when your dog is well exercised and perhaps even a little tired.

  If your Husky resists lying down when you push his shoulders, you may have to pull his forelegs forward to get him into position. Praise him quietly afterwards. (Don’t get too excited, or he’ll get up.)

  “Leave”

  I use the “leave” command to remove my dogs from the kitchen, especially when we are cooking or dining. To teach “leave,” take your dog’s collar and remove him to the desired room. Then praise him. When he comes back, patiently say “Please leave,” and repeat. Do this until he gets the message. You may use treats to explain what you mean.

  Your Husky is perfectly capable of understanding the function of doorways. Soon he will leave any room when requested. My own dogs enjoy asserting their independence in this regard. They lie as close to the threshold as possible, usually placing one paw in the forbidden room and gazing in with a stricken look. But they stay out.

  “Off”

  “Off” means, “Get the heck off the couch, Blizzard!” You can also use “no,” to make him get down, but “off” is more specific. It tells the dog exactly what you want him to do now. “Off” is a positive rather than a negative reinforcer. Besides, you can use “off” for other things, as a command for him to jump out of the back of the van and so forth.

  “Give it” and “drop it”

  These commands mean what they say, and they aren’t identical. A well-trained dog knows both of them. After all, you may want him to give you the stick he has so unexpectedly retrieved for you, but you’d rather he would just drop the mouse he found. It’s good practice for you to be able to remove anything your Siberian has in his mouth without a protest from him.

  “Heel”

  A correctly heeling dog is a pleasure to walk. The trouble involved in training him to move quietly at your side will be more than made up for later, when you are walking your Siberian with one hand and holding the baby/groceries/ dog show trophy in the other. If you have a puppy, take heart. A puppy is much easier to teach to heel than an older dog is. A puppy naturally wants to come with you and has no bad habits to break — so far.

  Use your 6-foot nylon or leather lead for training exercises. Nylon has a big advantage over leather; your Husky isn’t quite so apt to chew it to pieces. On the other hand, if the Husky starts pulling on a nylon leash, you can get a serious rope burn. But then, your Siberian will never strain at the leash, because you will train him not do so.

  Don’t use a chain leash. They are too heavy and noisy.

  If your dog works well on a regular collar, use that. The less control you need, the more pleasurable the exercise will be for both of you, and the better behaved you dog will ultimately be. You should be able to slip two fingers comfortably under the collar. If you must use a choke collar, adjust it correctly. Don’t use a harness for training a dog to walk with you.

  Don’t wrap the leash around your hand. It’s a less effective instrument that way. Besides, you could hurt your hand if the Siberian suddenly lunges at something.

  Dogs traditionally are trained to heel at the left side of their owners, but there’s no law about that. If you want your dog to heel on the right side, be my guest. Some left-handed people prefer walking their dogs on the right side. However, if you’re planning on showing your dog in conformation or obedience, it’s best to go with the flow and use the customary left side.

  Begin by reaching out and touching your dog. He will probably look up at you expectantly, which is what you want. You must get him to pay attention to you, and keep his eye on you. Say, “Tundra, heel,” and begin walking. Keep his chest in line with your knee. Do not allow him to lead with his nose.

  The heeling exercise is not a potty break. Don’t allow your Siberian to stop, lag, lunge ahead, or smell the roses while training. Every once in a while, after a successful heel, you can take a mini-break from training. Signify the break clearly by loosening the leash, while saying, “relax” or something similar. At these times, you can allow your dog to sniff about, but he should never be permitted to pull.

  During a heeling exercise, stop at every curb. This is good practice for both of you. You do not want your Husky to get the idea that it’s all right to run across the street.

  When you are finished with the heeling exercise, loosen the lead completely, and say “break.” This is the signal that your Husky may now sniff around and be dog-like.

  Correcting forging in your Husky

  Pulling at the lead is known as forging. It is a common trait among Siberians. Recall that the independent-minded Siberian is born to pull, and without your encouragement, he may not understand the difference between you and a sled.

  Forging begins long before you have attached the lead to the collar. It begins when your Husky sees the lead. If you can’t control him at this point, don’t expect that the upcoming foray will be a walk in the park, even if it is a walk in the park. Have your Siberian sit or stand quietly while you attach the lead. Do not put the lead on while he’s dancing around. Insist he remain calm. If he starts jumping around when the leash is on, take it off. Start again calmly. He will soon learn that the only way he’s getting out the door is quietly. Other-wise, you will have a struggle on your hands before the walk even begins.

  When your Husky starts to pull, turn the other way. Keep doing this. Don’t use any pattern. This will focus his attention on you. Because no one likes to be pulled, he’ll start paying attention to you, and trying to anticipate your moves. Say, “Heel,” in a quiet firm voice as you turn.

  Don’t go around aimlessly turning, however, just in order to confuse the dog. Use those turns only in response to his pulling against you. Most of the time, Huskies can see the path and will walk along it of their own accord. This is true of sled dogs as well. They follow the trail they see.

  You can also try walking backwards — this will make him stop to look at you. Do not allow your dog to pull you, ever. If you have to use an anti-pulling harness, do so, at least at first. The point is to break him from the habit of forging. (T
he opposite of forging is lagging. You will soon find that Huskies seldom lag.)

  As your Husky’s walking behavior improves, you can gradually loosen the lead so that you and he can take a pleasant stroll together without a struggle for leadership. When he is well-trained to heel, you can allow him to wander a bit on the lead, sniff about and so on. But when you say, “Heel, Snowbird,” he should immediately resume correct heeling.

  The leash is an extension of you. Never praise or treat your dog when the leash is taut. A taut lead indicates that your dog is resisting you and you don’t want to reward that kind of behavior.

  Sometimes, you may need a little mechanical help when you start training your dog to walk with you. This is especially true if you are working with an adult dog who has had no previous heel training, and you are not very strong.

  The traditional choke collar may not work at all, because some dogs automatically throw themselves against it. This is called an opposition reflex, and yanking back has the opposite effect from what you want. Huskies are born to pull and their natural response is to pull back. Huskies are also amazingly adroit at snapping a choke chain.

  A Siberian Husky can generate hundreds of pounds of force. If your Husky is a puller and you can’t handle him, try one of the following as a supplementary training device:

  No-pull harness.

  Halter. Halters like Halti-collar, Gentle Leader, or Snoot Loop work well, attaching to the head of the dog. They work by steering the dog’s head, and are both gentle and effective. They may be safely used in place of a regular collar. Many people prefer them, and they are especially useful when a child is walking the dog. Although it make take some time for your dog to get used to them, they are very effective and kind devices.

  Self-correcting collar. Another kind of collar, variously known as a pinch, self-correcting, prong, spike, or German collar, looks frightening, but really it isn’t. Its action imitates the nipping a mother dog does to her puppies. Remember: The use of these collars is a signal that your dog is untrained and out of control. If you use one for more than a few days, you’re doing something wrong.

  Taking Advantage of Formal Obedience Training

  You may decide that your Siberian is a little too much for you to handle by yourself, or perhaps you’d just like some more guidance. (This is fine — don’t feel guilty or think that you’ve failed.) Maybe you’re thinking of doing more advanced work someday, and want to get off on the right paw. All these reasons are good ones for working with a professional trainer.

  Know what your goals are. Are you looking for a better pet, or do you plan to show your dog in obedience competitions? Find a trainer to suit your needs.

  Finding a qualified trainer is not always easy. Unfortunately, no state requires licensing for dog trainers. Anyone who claims to be a dog trainer can be one, so far as the law is concerned. This means you have to do an extra thorough job of checking qualifications, experience, and recommendations. Ask whether your prospective trainer belongs to any trainers’ organizations, and if so, which ones. Membership in one of these organizations is no guarantee, but it lets you know that your trainer is keeping up with the latest research.

  Even the best general trainer may not be the perfect choice for your Siberian. Find a qualified trainer who is used to working with breeds other than obedience naturals like Border Collies and Labrador Retrievers. Your Siberian Husky needs special attention and responds to special training techniques (like treats) which are not used with standard obedience breeds.

  Look for an instructor who will listen to you, and who uses positive rather than negative reinforcement techniques. Choose one who seems to like your dog, and vice versa. Training can be difficult enough without a personality conflict. Check with your veterinarian, breed club, or trusted friends who work with a trainer they like. Interview your trainer before committing to anything.

  A good trainer will give you a price list and reasonable goals. She will give you and your dog homework to do. And she’ll help you get results.

  Chapter 9

  Dealing with Dominance and Aggression

  In This Chapter

  Knowing the purpose of dominance and aggression

  Recognizing common forms of aggression

  Preventing aggression in the first place

  Being prepared when encountering an aggressive dog

  In nature, dominance and aggression are not bad things. They’re actually critical tools for the success of any predator, or indeed any animal, who lives in a social group. Within such a group, dominance and aggression play a useful part in sorting out domestic problems and deciding who will make important decisions for the pack. Today, professional dog trainers use a dog’s natural dominant and aggressive tendencies to train guard and herding dogs.

  Understanding Canine Dominance and Aggression

  Aggression is normal. It’s how dogs solve (or eliminate) conflicts. After all, dogs are not masters of witty repartee. Subtle revenge is beyond them. They have only a few ways of responding when someone asks them to do something they don’t want to do. They can growl, snap, bite, run away, balk, or finally, submit.

  In the human world, as opposed to the natural one, most kinds of aggression are distinctly undesirable. We don’t want our dogs attacking each other, the family cat, or least of all — us. Nightmare visions of trips to the emergency room (or, even worse, to the courtroom) haunt us. Nor do we want our dogs to run away or turn stubborn. Instead, we want our dogs to submit to our requests. All this is just another way of saying that dogs must be trained to behave appropriately.

  As humans in the human-dog partnership, our job is to encourage non-aggressive, non-dominant behavior in our dogs. We need to teach them to respond even to unwelcome attentions in an appropriate way — for us. Our beloved dogs have to conform to human expectations. This means never biting, snapping, or running away.

  But the truth is that any dog may bite, given the wrong kind of stimulus, such as cruel or abusive treatment, pain, or even relentless teasing. If you never allow your dog to be subjected to this kind of treatment, he will have no incentive to resort to an extreme response.

  But what about the dog who is never teased yet still seems headed for a life of aggression? Many aggressive dogs have never had a sharp word spoken to them in their lives, which may be the very source of the problem.

  A dog is not a doll or an automaton; he is a complex living being. A single inappropriate behavior, like snapping, may have many different causes. Each cause needs to be carefully analyzed in order to figure out how to deal with it.

  In the following sections, I guide you through some of the main types of dominance and aggression, so you can identify them in your own Husky and respond appropriately.

  Relative dominance

  All dogs are not born equal. And as much it may appall our egalitarian principles, one dog will be the alpha dog in your home — if you own more than one. The alpha dog is the one who will demand to be greeted first, eat first, go out the door first, and so on.

  This relative dominance first develops in littermates at the age of about 4 weeks. Usually it is a self-limiting behavior. In other words, when you bring a new dog home, there may be squabbling among the housemates to discover who will be top dog. Usually the first dog in the home ends up becoming the alpha, but sometimes, if the new dog is used to being dominant and has a strong personality, you may have to prepare for a longer battle. Dominance squabbling most often occurs between dogs of the same sex.

  Allow your Huskies to set up their own dominance order. You may find that older females will turn out to be the dominant dogs. Reinforce whatever hierarchy the dogs select (as long as you and all other human beings are first). Feed, greet, and pet the dominant dog first. This may seem unfair, but you’ll be surprised how well it works. When a new dog joins the pack, everything will have to be sorted out all over again.

  Dogs instinctively seek to know their place in the pack. If you upset the apple
cart by trying to bring democracy to your household, you’ll only confuse your dogs and promote continual infighting. The more submissive dog may think he now has a chance at dominance and try to assert himself. The dominant dog will merely try that much harder to remain the boss and attack the submissive dog. Let the dogs sort things out amongst themselves.

  To help reduce canine household stress, make sure all dogs have equal access to food. (They will share water with no problem.) This means separate food dishes for each dog.

  Rarely, relative dominance escalates into peer aggression, where one dog will continually attack other dogs. This type of aggression is fairly rare in Huskies, and when it does occur, it’s usually limited to chasing or attacking smaller dogs (see the next section,“Predatory aggression”). Peer aggression is usually confined to intra-gender conflict — males attacking males, or females attacking females. You can intervene in peer aggression if a fight has not actually broken out. A dog fight is usually preceded by scuffling, noise, and even boxing behavior. If you can distract the dogs at this point by offering a walk or a treat, you may avert an actual fight. Don’t yell; that only serves to excite the potential combatants.