Siberian Huskies For Dummies Page 16

  Your Siberian may be also be teething, and chewing helps relieve his discomfort. A few ice cubes are a good chew toy at teething time. In addition to giving the pup something to crunch, ice has a numbing effect on his sore gums. You can even freeze or chill any of your pup’s regular toys, or use a cold, rolled-up washcloth. Siberians like the cold anyway; it may remind them of their roots.

  If your older Husky suddenly begins chewing, he may have dental or upper gastrointestinal difficulties. This problem is definitely one that needs to be addressed, because the chewing can become habitual, even after the initial problem goes away.

  If your dog is not on a regular feeding schedule, his instincts tell him to hunt for food wherever it may be. He may be eating the sofa because he’s hungry. If your work prevents you from getting home at the same time every day and you have a couch-cruncher, consider getting a pet-sitter or using a self-feeder.

  On the other hand, if your Husky starts devouring a large number of items that are not food, he may have a condition called pica. If you suspect this condition, check with your veterinarian.

  Maybe your dog is plagued with existential angst or ennui. More so than almost any other breed, Siberians crave companionship, human and canine. A bored Siberian is a destructive Siberian.

  I once got a letter from a dog who had this tale to tell: “I was forced to chew up three remote controls, two pairs of gloves, a valuable textbook, and a watch before my slovenly owner learned to put her things away properly. She was a slow learner, but eventually, with positive reinforcement (I would lick her face as she stooped to pick up the chewed articles), she got the message.”

  Curing chewing

  Remember, it’s normal and natural for dogs to chew. If you see your dog chewing something inappropriate, substitute something better, without fussing about it. When your puppy begins to chew the chair leg, offer him another favorite toy, and praise him when he accepts it. Young dogs are particularly prone to digging and chewing; a chewing frenzy often develops between the ages of 6 and 10 months. It may subside and then peak again at about 18 months. As dogs grow older, most become less apt to chew things.

  Try to exercise your Husky before leaving him alone. If he’s pleasantly tired, he’ll be less likely to chew or dig.

  I heard of one Siberian who destroyed all the linoleum in the laundry room when he was left alone for ten minutes. Locking dogs in small areas is almost bound to result in destructive behavior if your Husky is not crate-trained.

  Confining your dog in a windowless area increases his destructive propensities. Dogs should be able to look out the window; they get endless amusement spying on the neighbors, just like we do. Provide toys in his confinement area as well.

  Most of us have to be away from our dog for at least a few hours every day. To keep your Siberian company, try leaving the television or radio on. As far as music choice goes, it’s up to you, but my experience has shown that elevator music has a stupefying effect on dogs — not a bad idea in the case of Huskies.

  Preventing chair chomping

  A variety of bitter-tasting sprays and foams (including the widely used Bitter Apple) are available to stop a dog’s destructive chewing. Tabasco sauce also works nicely. So do deodorant, mouthwash, and cheap perfume. (Finally, a use for that cologne Cousin Mildred sent you last Christmas.) A product called Protex is designed to keep dogs from chewing fabric — or their own fur.

  However, preventive products like Bitter Apple are at best temporary remedies. You can’t expect to go around for the rest of your days spraying Bitter Apple on all your possessions. The only surefire cure to chewing is steady, consistent training, or separation of dog and valuables.

  Some anxiety-reducing drugs, like Clomicalm, can help immensely in reducing your dog’s anxious tension and the destructive behavior that accompanies it. I recommend these only as a last resort, but they have produced some excellent results. Like Bitter Apple, they should supplement, and not replace, training.

  You can also stop a dog from jumping on the couch by covering the furniture with soda cans partially filled with marbles or coins. There’s also a product called Snappy Trainer, which has the effect of mousetraps without the potential danger. You can even buy no-jump plastic strips that make a noise when your dog steps on them. A product called Scat creates static pulses (at various levels) to make your pet uncomfortable when he gets on the couch. Or you can always keep the Husky out of the room.

  Counter-Cruising

  In the dog trade, stealing food off the kitchen counters is referred to as counter-cruising. It’s a habit that gets worse in the winter — probably a holdover from the Siberian’s arctic past. The bitter weather triggers a “food-now-at-any-price” response.

  Although some people have good success battling this behavior by placing noisy mousetraps and other anti-nosing-around items on the counter, most people rely on good old management techniques. Never leave anything juicy on the counter when you’re not there to watch it.

  Some Huskies can learn to open refrigerators. I know two people who have had to put chains and padlocks on their refrigerators to keep the contents inside.

  Leslie Anderson of Oklahoma City reports that she and her husband discovered a perfectly good, frozen turkey, still wrapped, on the interstate. Never one to pass up a free meal, Leslie’s husband snatched up the turkey and brought it home. The turkey was promptly dubbed “Skidmark” and left in the sink to defrost. Shadow, Leslie’s heretofore completely well-behaved Siberian, somehow managed to amputate a leg, thigh, and breast from Skidmark, hoping no one would notice. Shadow was scolded and put out in disgrace. On her return, she devoured a pecan pie and a quiche left on the table. Skidmark was discarded. “Poor Skidmark,” sighs Leslie. “Even in death it was a tough life.”

  Trash Dumping

  Related to food-stealing is trash dumping. Because dogs are scavengers, a loaded trash can is hard for them to resist. If your dog is considering a career in Solid Waste Dispersal, get a trash container with a lid and foot pedal, or keep the trash can somewhere where he can’t get to it. You can hide the trash basket under the sink, behind the cellar door, or in some other Husky-proof place.

  If you feed your Siberian from the table or allow him to beg during meals, you are essentially inviting him to help himself. Don’t blame him if he grabs something while you’re not looking. You have taught him everything he knows.

  If you actually catch your Siberian in the act of stealing food or trash dumping, you can try squirting him with a mixture of water and lemon juice or vinegar. Say, “No!” firmly at the same time, so he doesn’t think you’re just playing with him.

  Running Off

  Siberians are tremendous escape artists. They can slip collars, break chains, and dissolve into the mist. And once they escape, they tend to stay gone.

  Siberian Huskies are also runners by nature. Running is bred into every bone in their bodies. They were born to run long and hard (and pull a sled while doing so). Siberians run in a very fast, straight line in the opposite direction from you. This doesn’t mean he’s running away. He’s just running off.

  Take it from a veteran

  Lois Leonard, who describes herself as owner, trainer, handler, and friend of a Siberian named Lojan’s Very Special Sula told me an interesting tale. Sula was more than the average obedience champion. In fact, in her nine years of competition, she earned 248 qualifying scores in AKC obedience. She won 18 area Specialty High in Trials, 2 National Specialty High in Trials, and 3 all-breed High in Trials. This achievement earned her the title of OTCH (Obedience Trials Champion), an honor won by only two Siberians in history.

  Guess what? Obedience Trial Champion Lojan’s Very Special Sula, Canadian C.D.X, Schutzhund A.D., took off from Lois when the dog was 15 years old and stone deaf. She darted across the road after another dog, while Lois screamed uselessly after her (after all the dog was deaf). Sula wasn’t struck by a car, but she easily could have been. As Lois says, “You will never be a
ble to trust a Siberian, any Siberian, off lead in an unfenced area. Never.” It’s as simple as that.

  A Siberian Husky can run so fast that he may be 20 miles away before he wonders what happened to his owner. By then it’s too late. Although Siberians are truly excellent at running off, they are not nearly so good at finding their way home again.

  To keep your Husky in, you must build a secure fence, preferably one 6 feet high. A few Siberians have been known to scale fences as high as 8 feet. You may have to deter a serious climber with a hot wire placed low to the ground.

  The best fences are made of wood and wire. If you have a digger, bury the fence in the ground deeper than the Siberian can dig. Unfortunately, some of them can dig pretty deep. Most Siberians seem to dig more for the joy of digging than as an escape plan.

  Although many people swear by the so-called invisible electronic fence, it is far from Husky-proof, particularly if you own more than one Husky. The call of the wild is very strong in Siberians. Some Huskies will charge through an invisible fence, shock or no shock. Furthermore, the radio-control collars often don’t work well on the heavily-furred Siberian, so you may have to shave the dog’s hair to use the collar effectively.

  After your Husky has broken through the electronic fence, he will not be anxious to charge back in. And if there is a power failure or the battery goes dead, he’ll soon be out of your yard. Invisible fencing doesn’t keep predators (human or animal) out of the yard, so if you’re relying on it to control your dog, you’re inviting a dog fight. Huskies are a highly prized, frequently stolen breed, partially because they are so friendly, and innocent of the intentions of dog-nappers. Be forewarned.

  Electronic fences may be suitable for large areas if you are outside playing with your Husky. They are also useful for containing small areas inside your yard. If you keep him busy, he will probably not challenge the fence.

  Having a yard, however, is no guarantee that your Husky will actually use it to exercise in. More than likely, he’ll spend quite a bit of time sitting at the back door waiting to be let in. Regular walks or supervised play are very important for all dogs, and the exercise will make your Siberian less bored and more tired — hence more anxious to escape.

  In short, you cannot train a Siberian to stay at home. He is not a guard dog or a Retriever. Nor can you train a Siberian to stay reliably by your side as you walk along; you must keep your Husky on a leash at all times.

  Hunting Other Animals

  Siberians have a strong hunting instinct. Given a chance, they may kill chickens, strange cats, rabbits, and groundhogs. Some have even been known to kill lambs or calves.

  Because hunting is instinctive in Siberians, it cannot be trained out of them, at least not completely. Although some Huskies are totally uninterested in hunting anything, many more are passionate about it. It is your responsibility to keep your Siberian away from livestock and neighbors’ pets. Do not expect your neighbors to take extraordinary precautions to keep your dog away from their livestock. That’s your job.

  Charging the Door

  You’re just ready for work. You are loaded down with your briefcase, lunch bag, and a plant for one of your coworkers. You struggle cautiously with the door, fearing the worst. And then pow! Before you know it, the Siberian has crashed by, knocking the plant, the contract, and the egg salad sandwich to the floor in a smashed mess. He’s also ripped your nylons and slammed your face against the wall on his way out.

  Obviously, you must put a stop to this behavior. But if charging the door is an already established pattern, it may take some time to correct. You will also need to enlist the help of everyone in the family, especially the children. Children are the most likely culprits in the behavior getting started in the first place. They are also the chief victims of it.

  Never attempt to open a door or gate while your dog is crowding you. Stop short, and whirl around, facing your Siberian. Speak in your firmest voice, and hold your hand right in front of his face, nose-level. Use your leg or whole body if necessary to prevent his getting by you. Say, “Wait!” or “Stay!” Begin to open the door, very slowly. If your Siberian makes a move toward the door, slam the door shut, shake the dog’s collar firmly, and repeat your command. You and your family need to practice this routine several times a day at every door in the house to put a halt to this undesirable and dangerous behavior.

  Never allow your Siberian to go out the door before you do. Alphas go first. And you are the alpha.

  Jumping Up

  The Siberian’s friendliness may evidence itself in a great, not always appreciated, Siberian hug. He is leaping up on you. And why? For one reason: to get your attention.

  To cure this behavior, you need to enlist the help of friends and family alike. Never allow your friends to say, “Oh, it’s okay, I don’t mind if he jumps.” They may not mind, but your 87-year-old great-aunt may be less appreciative. A strong dog like a Husky can seriously injure an older person or a child just by expressing his love too exuberantly.

  Do not greet your Husky until he is sitting or standing quietly. Keep your greetings low-key and he will imitate your behavior.

  The simplest method to stopping your dog from jumping up is to ignore the dog. Fold your arms, look away, and say, “No.” Greet your dog only when he is quiet and sits down. The theory is that, because your dog is trying to get attention, he will cease the unwanted behavior when attention is withdrawn.

  If the dog jumps up, grab his front paws and hold them up. Keep him up. Do not let him down. This is uncomfortable for the dog, and he’ll soon try desperately to get away. Hang on to him a few minutes, neither praising nor scolding him. Then relent and let him down. The theory is that he will soon desist jumping, because of the negative consequences. Be careful not to step on the dog’s toes or you could inflict serious injury.

  You can also try getting down and letting your Husky see your face without his having to jump up to reach it. It is natural for him to want to lick your face; it’s the way his mother taught him when he was a puppy. So even if you don’t let your dog kiss you, allow him to get close. Just remember that this technique may not prevent his leaping up on guests.

  Some people recommend kneeing the dog in the chest. But not only have I not found this to be successful, it can also hurt your dog if you’re not careful.

  Don’t allow your Husky to jump up on you when you have old clothes on and then expect him to stay down when you’re dressed up. A dog really can’t tell the difference between your around-the-house clothes and your Sunday best.

  Whatever technique you use, save your praise until all four of the dog’s feet are on the ground. This takes some critical timing, but it’s absolutely essential.

  Part IV

  Keeping Your Husky Healthy

  In this part . . .

  Part of owning a dog is knowing how to take care of him. After all, your Husky is completely dependent upon you for his well-being. So in the chapters in this part, I fill you in on all you need to know about your Husky’s health. You’ll get tips on everything from feeding and grooming, to finding a good vet and responding to health problems if and when they arise. Illness and accident aren’t things any of us like to think about, but in this part you’ll figure out how you can help your Siberian make it through even the most dire of situations with quick thinking and the appropriate response.

  Chapter 11

  Feeding Your Husky

  In This Chapter

  Understanding your dog’s nutritional needs

  Making sense of the different kinds of dog food available

  Figuring out how to read the labels

  Feeding your dog differently, depending on his individual needs

  Compensating for seasonal changes in temperature

  More ink has probably flowed over the issue of nutrition than any other single canine topic. Commercial dog foods versus homemade; raw versus cooked; people food versus dog-only food; bones versus no bones; chicken wings ver
sus no chicken wings; supplements versus no supplements — all have stirred dog fanciers to varying degrees of frenzy. The good news is, you can relax. Dogs are scavengers by nature and can survive and thrive on a remarkable variety of foods. A good commercial dog food will probably satisfy your Husky’s nutritional needs. And just being aware of what’s out there and talking with your vet about your options is really all you need to do.

  Knowing Your Husky’s Nutritional Needs

  One big controversy concerning canine nutrition is over whether your dog should remain on one dog food or whether he should consume a variety of different foods. Some nutritionists claim that the canine system does better when it stays on one complete food and that switching around could be upsetting to the digestive tract. They compare a dog to a finely-tuned car, saying that when you find the right brand of gas with the right octane, there’s no point in changing. Some people also maintain that switching dog foods can make a dog finicky.

  Others, citing the fact that dogs are natural scavengers, believe that dogs enjoy variety and even thrive on it. They argue that, because we don’t yet know everything about canine dietary requirements, changing a dog’s diet occasionally is actually safer, because it increases the chances that he’s getting what he needs. These proponents of the “variety is the spice of life” school think dogs are a lot closer to humans than they are to cars. And I agree.